We toured the old centre of Cusco, visiting the old Inca sun temple which surmounted by a 16th century Spanish monastery. Then to the main square, touring the cathedral, watching a religious festival and walking around the colonial square. Then, to Sacsayhuaman , or "sexy woman", where massive limestone rocks snake their way across the land, and thence to Q'enqo, where death and sacrifice were paramount. We learned that the Inca were not against sacrificing in order to gain Pacha Mama's favour for such things as good harvests and good fortune. But the sacrifices usually took the form of animal slaughter. Only when Pacha Mama failed to respond to the sacrifice did the Inca resort to human sacrifice. Such is the capricious ways of all gods, I suppose: some days, they favour with blessings and kindness, and others, they ignore or, worse, strike out at all humanity. If you try to figure this out, or seek to understand, good luck to you.
From there, back to Cusco for a free afternoon wandering the cobblestone streets looking for souvenirs and a good cafe. We found one, and settled in to watch Peru take on Chile in world cup qualification while sipping capacinos.
The age of Cusco is a bit deceptive, however. A massive earthquake destroyed the city in 1950, collapsing centuries-old Spanish buildings, which have been restored and rebuilt in the old style. The cathedral's beautiful bell towers were toppled. Yet, the Inca walls remained intact. The Spanish did so much to destroy the Incas and take their land, but the land ultimately destroyed them.
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