Thursday, November 15, 2012

DAY 29 SUN. OCT. 28 GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

An early morning filled with sunshine beckoned us. We are now becoming skilled in suiting up and boarding our panga, getting to be more like marines every time out. Today we visited Fernandino Island, the most pristine of all the Galapagos. As the Cormorants hit the beach on a lava encrusted shore at low tide, we soaked up the brilliant early morning sun. Then, we marched inland over what we thought was a black lava field, only to be shocked and amazed at the sight before us. Literally scores of black marine iguanas littered the landscape, totally uncaring or unconcerned by our presence. We picked our way over slippery lava rock and over the iguanas, wary to be out of range of their salty exhales or impaled on their bony backs. It was a bizarre scene out of some cheesy 1960's Japanese horror film.

The rest of the morning had us tromping along trails and rocks and the parade of wildlife continued to be impressive. We witnessed a juvenile male sea lion flee for his life as he tried to enter the water and was immediately challenged by a dominant male. The young sea lion was literally scared shitless as his fear got the better of him and he torpedoed through the shallow water to retreat from the big bull's advance. We also saw a touching episode of cormorant devotion as a male emerged from the ocean with a gift of seaweed and presented it to a nesting female. To our great relief, she accepted his gift, but sent him back to the sea to get back to work and get more. Birds, crabs, more sea lions, turtles, iguanas, everything we've seen on countless National Geographic specials competed for our attention on our hike. This was certainly the best morning of our expedition to the Galapagos.

The rest of the day for me was spent pleasantly on deck with a good book and a mostly quiet ship. Gayle was given a nice compliment on her photography skills and was asked to photograph new cocktails invented by the ship's bartender. We shared in her bounty by consuming some interesting new creations. The afternoon activity was a panga ride to seek some new bird colonies and fishing grounds. I needed to rest a sore knee, so while everyone else had a rough panga ride, I settled into finish Cormac McCarthy's excellent "All The Pretty Horses." Lou returned safe and sound, but told of rolling seas under the panga. Glad I stayed back!!



Our final evening was a slightly sentimental good bye to the ship and crew. A photo montage captured the excursions of the last 4 days and we all agreed that the trip improved as it went along, and that Gayle should have won the photo contest, but she was robbed. She'll get 'em next time !!

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