DAY 4 WED. OCT. 3 LIMA - CUSCO - YUKAY

Our early morning flight took us over the magnificent cloud-shrouded Andes. Mountains never get old for us, for they are millions of years in the making, permanent, will never disappear and know everything.

Upon arrival in Cusco, we headed straight into a transit strike that threatened to disrupt our drive. The altitude also insinuated itself upon us: we found ourselves huffing and puffing for no apparent reason, and eagerly chewed coca leaves ( tasted like straw ) and sipped coca tea ( strangely pleasant taste ) seeking relief from the rarified air. 

Pablo introduced us to our local guide, Jackie, a lovely young woman who lived in Cusco. Together with our driver, Fernando, they used persuasive patience to save the day and get us around and through picket lines.

We climbed into the mountains, past more archeological sites concentrated into a smaller area than is humanly possible. The views were stunning and we began to get a sense of the marvellous cultures who lived, grew and thrived here, ultimately consumed by the conquerors, the Inca who were, in turn, conquered by the Spanish. We passed Sacsayhuaman and Urubama and ultimately arrived in sunny and hot Ollyantaytambo, a sacred and thriving Inca fortress and village. We climbed steep steps and beheld the sheer immensity of this Inca administrative centre. How it was built is an ablolute mystery, but it was huely ingenious ( able to withstand earthquakes ) and impressive. but the views of the Sacred Valley, with the ancient terraces carved out of steep mountains, and aqueducts still functioning and the Urubamba River cutting through it all made my sleep-deprived mind wander. This place was both strange and familiar: it reminded me of Hopi and Anastasi cliff dwellings and Roman fortress towns like Housesteads. The Inca have captured us and we will learn more tomorrow at the holiest site: Machu Picchu.

A side note: I tried my first Peruvian beer this evening and it tasted terrible !! But I later learned from fellow travellers Bill and Sandy that the diamox I am taking to help alleviate altitude symptoms has a certain side-effect of making carbonated drinks taste like metal. I'm rather displeased to say that it's true!