One last early morning, one last breakfast with the wonderful Byron, one last panga ride ( Harry was late! ) and one last beautiful sunny morning. We left the Legend behind and panga-ed to the island with the tortoise reserve. The bus ride to the reserve was at breakneck speed and, for the first time on the trip, I truly feared for our well-being. Certainly it can be said that, concerning Harry and the Galapagos, it's "safety second".
I trod through wet ground with my fellow Cormorants and behld my first giant tortoise. But I was not able to fully appreciate him because I must have stood on an ant hill and was instantly beset with the little buggers. Thanks to Irene, I was able to use her bug spray and get them off my shoes, ankles and lower legs before anything more vital was attacked.
We trudged on and saw more toroises wallowing in the mud. Two of them obliged us by running a race !! I'm quite serious about this. The second tortoise overcame the lead of the larger one, but, alas, we did not have enough time to watch the thrilling conclusion. In fact, no one alive today has enough time to watch the race's thrilling conclusion ... they'll still be racing 70 years from now! It is remarkable to consider that we were in the presence of creatures over 100 years old, and who will still be walking on the earth long after we have gone on to our final rewards.
A short, bumpy flight saw us leave the Galapagos, not reluctantly, and arrive in Guyaquil. We said our sad goodbyes to Irene, Gloria, Linda and Helen before the flight, as they were to go on to Quito and then home. But I gave Pablo a big hug when we reunited with him for the last leg of our trip.
We overnighted in Guyaquil. Pablo gave us a quick tour of this, Ecuador's largest city. It is only now starting to rid itself of its high-crime reputation and try to start a tourism industry. Many old buildings have been restored, the waterfront is a handsome parkland promenade and a unique vantage point is obtained after climbing 440 steps through a colourful working-class neighbourhood of charming homes, bars and restaurants. But, wander 20 fee on either side of the stair case and you're in a "no-go" zone where the bad guys are in charge. Police and security guards wander the stairway and keep wary eyes on the goings and comings of tourists and locals alike. From up high, the contrast is striking, and the stairway looks like a type of demilitarized zone. An uneasy truce exists between the cops and the gangs. Hopefully, the good zone will expand in time with increased tourism and commerce.
The day concluded with a walk along the Malecon which is truly a fine waterfront promenade. We enjoyed the cool evening breezes from the river and contemplated life in a large city just starting to find its way in the world. A typical Guyaquil dinner of goat stew and a couple of cool beers completed the day nicely. Yum !!
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